Club wines for this month are 100% RIESLING in celebration of and participation with the Summer of Riesling!
The Naturalist
Fermented with native yeasts and farmed organically/biodynamically/lutte raisonnée, as per usual with this wing of the club.
2009 Albert Mann “Cuvee Albert”, Alsace, France $23
Biodynamically farmed and aged on the lees, this is a small production Alsatian bottling (only 150 cases imported to the US) made by brothers Maurice and Jacky Barthelmé. It’s off-dry, fruity and spicy with a solid core of acidity. Pairs very well with “seafood, grilled sardines and sushi” so says the folks on the winery’s website. We agree!
2011 A.J. Adam Dhron Hofberg Kabinett, Mosel, Germany $33
From importer Terry Thiese’s 2012 estate selections catalog: “Tiny grower making some of the most exotic, most old-school Mosel wines in existence. Stellar across the board, and for the quality, far from expensive.” A note on the term “Kabinett”- it’s the driest designation under the Pradikatswein classification system (established in 1775 to certify quality and specify levels of sugar at harvesting).
The Gastronomist
A selection of food-friendly wines for the dinner table. This month- a tour of Riesling through Germany and Austria.
2011 Selbach “Incline”, Mosel, Germany $13
An entry-level introduction of the wines from one of the Mosel’s star winemakers, Johannes Selbach of Selbach-Oster. Sourced from the classic, steep terraced vineyards of the region, hence the name “Incline.” This is a remarkably enjoyable Riesling as well as very elegant and pure, given the price tag. It has a hint of sweetness, but is still quite clean and refreshing.
2011 Donnhoff Estate, Nahe, Germany $23
From importer Terry Thiese (yet again): “In this humble taster’s opinion, these are the greatest Rieslings on earth. No other wine, anywhere, exceeds the clarity, polish, complexity and sheer beauty of flavor of this grower’s finest wines. Simply, like the most perfect Riesling that can ever be.” Preach!
2011 Schloss Gobelsburg “Gobelsburger”, Kamptal, Austria $18
For a change of pace, how about an Austrian Riesling? They certainly don’t get the attention they deserve, living in the shadow of Germany’s famous Rieslings. Slightly herbacious and grassy, an interesting example of how Riesling can differ in another region’s terroir.
